Johnny1000 RemoveThis @webtv.net wrote:
>When I went to put it in gear for the first time to drive it
>out of the showroom, I squeezed the cluch lever all the way in to the
>stop, then stepped on the gear shift. ...It went into first gear, but
>I could feel a slight lurch of the bike like the clutch was trying to
>grab. ...The idle was slow, and the engine abruptly stalled.
Well, the engine in a brand new motorcycle has a lot of extra internal
friction, it takes a little more throttle to get the bike to start moving.
That's why you have to break the engine in, and then when you take it back
for the 600 miles service the extra friction is gone and the engine idles
faster so the mechanic turns the idle screw down.
> ...The dealer said to give it more choke, to get the engine running
>faster. I did, and it worked fine.
The $tealer will say anything to get rid of a customer complaint.
Was the engine still cold? You shouldn't need to use the choke to get a 650cc
motorcycle to move once the engine is warmed up.
The "choke" on your bike is a tiny little carburetor built into the side of
each real carburetor. It makes the mixture richer while the engine is cold
and that helps to overcome the extra friction inside your new engine.
>Anyways... ...Is this normal...
It's normal to a certain extent. All new engines need break in miles.
>I mean, shouldn't there be a certain amount of inward play (as you
>release the hand lever) before the clutch actually grabs? ...Or should
>it be set up as this, so that as soon as you release the lever even a
>tad, the clutch starts to engage?
You're right, but the clutch also has a little extra friction because the
plates are new, so the clutch will be grabby at first.
But you can still check the upper end of the clutch cable where it goes into
the adjuster on the clutch lever perch.
Lack of play in the cable housing generally causes the clutch to slip when
the lever is furthest away from you.
Turn the adjuster clockwise to add play.
There should be some small amount of play between the clutch cable housing
and the adjuster screw. That might be around 0.040 to 0.060 inches ( 1.0 to 1.
5 millimeters).
If there is a lot of excess cable housing play at the adjuster, the clutch
will engage when there is still a lot of lever play away from you.
http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/ShowSchematic.asp...eptId=2
Loosen #6, turn #5 counterclockwise until the cable has the correct amount of
play, tighten #6.
If you have turned the adjuster screw all the way in or all the way out so
it's about to fall out of the clutch lever perch, the other place to adjust
the cable
is down on the side of the engine at the cable bracket.
http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/ShowSchematic.asp...eptId=2
#10 clutch cable. This drawing shows a threaded adjuster barrel for the lower
end of the cable.
--
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http://www.motorcyclekb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/yamaha/200710/1 >> Stay informed about: V-star 650 -- clutch adjustment? 
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