It is good to be conversing with someone knowlegible. And I appreciate you
looking and researching.
Your description of the pilot screw is correct. I was lucky that mine were
not under a brass plug, but rather were covered with red silicone, I think
from the factory. Apparently some years had the brass plug, while other
years they used red silicone. I have had the pilot idle mixture screws out
and cleaned all of them, and made sure the outlet port is clear. After
looking closer at the factory service manual that I have, and reading online
about cleaning the carbs, I was confusing the "pilot screw set" with what I
thought was other parts under the pilot jet, in the bottom of the carbs.
I am pretty sure the idle mixture port is clear, because I have blown
compressed air and carb cleaner through it. Also, the butterflies were
closed when I remounted the carbs on the bike, and I have only made minor
adjustments to sync the carbs. I have also tried reducing the idle screw to
close the butterfiles. I can't get it to die by backing down the idle
setting, it just goes down to about 1000 RPM's and then sits there, idling
fine, even though I continue to turn down the idle. Because of this, I
think it is fine getting fuel through the idle circuit.
I don't think the problem is compression because when I borrowed by friends
carbs, it started fine.
I think the starter bypass circuit is ok. If the bike is warmed up and
running, starting to open the bypass circuit even a little causes the motor
start to sputter and eventually die (too rich I assume). The starter jets
in the bowls are clear because I can easily shoot carb cleaner through them.
This is really baffling me. I have got so many hours of labor in this bike
now, the thought of giving up now makes me cringe. I've been looking at
used carb bodies on e-bay, but with that you are just getting someone else's
problems.
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