In article <Ft2dnQG7C84WlTnd4p2dnA.DeleteThis@giganews.com>,
"Hagar the Horrible" <hagen.DeleteThis@sahm.name> wrote:
> I just replaced the stock mufflers and in the process I had to loosen the
> header pipes, both front and rear. Nowhere in the instructions did it
> mention anything about the correct torque to re-tighten them. I just
> guessed at it, but I think is important, since that area gets really hot.
> Does anyone know what it is supposed to be, or where I can find that
> information, since I don't have a shop manual ??
There are some general torque ranges for standard steel fasteners you
can find in general mechanic's references. I have some somewhere in my
piles of junk, but maybe you can Google something. I found
<a style='text-decoration: underline;' href="http://www.bikers1.com/tech_torque.htm" target="_blank">http://www.bikers1.com/tech_torque.htm</a> as an example. If the fasteners
were special steel, with those funny marks on the nuts, then the torque
values would be higher, but I doubt that manifold studs are hardened
steel (judging by how easily they bend--oops!). Maybe someone else has
more info...? Don't know if anti-seize compound on them is advised(?)
I think the key would be to have both nuts (there's two per header,
right?) set equally, to lessen the chance of breaking a stud, or a
leaking gasket. Try making sure both studs and nuts are equally clean
(wire brush) and dry (no lube) before using a torque wrench to set them.
As with any bolt pattern, do one side to 25% torque, then the other, do
the first side to 50%, then the other, etc. on up to 100% of your target
value. I have a cheap old pointer-style wrench, but I hear the clicking
ones are better.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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