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Removing the Clutch Boss from the Main Axle

 
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Scott Ritter

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Since: May 16, 2006
Posts: 2



(Msg. 1) Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 9:17 am
Post subject: Removing the Clutch Boss from the Main Axle
Archived from groups: rec>motorcycles>tech (more info?)

Hi,

I have the unfortunate job of replacing second gear in my 02 R1 (yes, you
guessed it) and have the motor out and most of it apart.

I have now reached the point where I need specialised tools. Or do I really?

Are there any other ways to undo the boss nut from the main axle than to use
the specialised universal clutch holder tool? eg. with screw drivers, etc. ?

I am scared to use a screwdriver as I could easily break bits off and that
would feel as bad as dropping a nut into the the engine block by accident Wink

If the tool is the only way, where can I get the cheapest tool from? Money
is a problem here - or I'd have the bike in the shop and be paying the
$4000+AU they wanted.

I could prolly build myself a tool but then I'd have to move all the bits
(bike parts in the hundreds) to a safe place from all the metal filings and
sparks.

Cheers

Scott
PS. The next job is the Generator Rotor Bolt from the Generator.

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FB

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Since: Feb 16, 2006
Posts: 278



(Msg. 2) Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 9:17 am
Post subject: Re: Removing the Clutch Boss from the Main Axle [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Scott Ritter wrote:

> Are there any other ways to undo the boss nut from the main axle than to use
> the specialised universal clutch holder tool? eg. with screw drivers, etc. ?

One guy reported that he broke off one of the pieces that the pressure
plate bolts attach to by putting a screwdriver between them.

Do not use screwdrivers against aluminum parts, you will be unhappy
with the results.

> I could prolly build myself a tool but then I'd have to move all the bits
> (bike parts in the hundreds) to a safe place from all the metal filings and
> sparks.

My Haynes manual shows how to build a home made tool out of two pieces
of cold-rolled steel bar stock. The two pieces are about two feet long.
The last 1.5 to 2.0 inches are bent at a 90 degree angle. A hole is
drilled through each piece of bar stock about 1/3rd of the way from the
bent ends, and the two pieces are fastened to gether with a screw and
nut so you wind up with a tool that looks like tongs. The bent ends go
into the gear teeth on the hub and you squeeze the long ends of the
bars to stop the hub from rotating.

Maybe another method would be to find a really large diameter steel
hose clamp and use that to stop the hub from rotating.

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Scott Ritter

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Since: May 16, 2006
Posts: 2



(Msg. 3) Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 1:04 pm
Post subject: Re: Removing the Clutch Boss from the Main Axle [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Excellent ideas, I think the hose clamp idea may help with undoing the
Generator Rotor bolt as the generator rotor looks to be solid and strong.
Just need a hose clamp that is strong enough to tighten with great force.

Thanx for the reply, very much appreciated.


"FB" <flying_booger DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1147745379.431475.63120@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
>
> Scott Ritter wrote:
>
>> Are there any other ways to undo the boss nut from the main axle than to
>> use
>> the specialised universal clutch holder tool? eg. with screw drivers,
>> etc. ?
>
> One guy reported that he broke off one of the pieces that the pressure
> plate bolts attach to by putting a screwdriver between them.
>
> Do not use screwdrivers against aluminum parts, you will be unhappy
> with the results.
>
>> I could prolly build myself a tool but then I'd have to move all the bits
>> (bike parts in the hundreds) to a safe place from all the metal filings
>> and
>> sparks.
>
> My Haynes manual shows how to build a home made tool out of two pieces
> of cold-rolled steel bar stock. The two pieces are about two feet long.
> The last 1.5 to 2.0 inches are bent at a 90 degree angle. A hole is
> drilled through each piece of bar stock about 1/3rd of the way from the
> bent ends, and the two pieces are fastened to gether with a screw and
> nut so you wind up with a tool that looks like tongs. The bent ends go
> into the gear teeth on the hub and you squeeze the long ends of the
> bars to stop the hub from rotating.
>
> Maybe another method would be to find a really large diameter steel
> hose clamp and use that to stop the hub from rotating.
>
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Doug Warner

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Since: Jul 07, 2003
Posts: 25



(Msg. 4) Posted: Tue May 16, 2006 9:02 pm
Post subject: Re: Removing the Clutch Boss from the Main Axle [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

I made one from two lengths of flat steel stock, I drilled one ened
of each for a single bolt, and bent the other ends 90 degrees,
I then ground down the bent ends to reduce their width just enough
that they fit tightly between the notches in the baxket, and the slots
in the center hub. The length of the tool is about 2 feet.

With the end of the tool braced, it's easy to turn the clutch nut. If
you want a photo of the tool, let me know.
--
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