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Vader2

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Since: Oct 03, 2004
Posts: 12



(Msg. 1) Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2004 9:23 pm
Post subject: Rectifier problems
Archived from groups: alt>motorcycle>sportbike (more info?)

Anyone know of any good rectifier symptoms?

During the summer months I identified the problem with my battery
consistently dying. The rectifier connector had a slight meltdown and the
wiring was touching occasionally. I clipped the connector off and used push
connectors to the rectifier. I been running ok. However, I noticed when I
have the signal light on and other instrument panel light slightly dims each
time the signal light blinks. Eventhough my voltage levels at 3000rpm were
reading at about 13.8 -14.5 I suspect the rectifier may have been damaged by
the wires once touching.

Also my idle speed dips about 200 rpm intermittently.

Any advise?

-Ron
95' CBR600 F3

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krusty kritter

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Since: Jun 10, 2004
Posts: 407



(Msg. 2) Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2004 4:32 am
Post subject: Re: Rectifier problems [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

 >From: "Vader" d_vader42 DeleteThis @hotmail.com

 >However, I noticed when I have the signal light on and other instrument panel
light slightly dims each time the signal light blinks.

That's relatively normal...

When your turn signals are flashing on and off, you have a large surge of
current going through the flasher to heat up the bimetallic contacts that turn
the signal lights off, plus you have a large surge of current going through the
filaments of two bulbs to make them start glowing brightly. The surges of
current consume more wattage than the turn signal bulbs would use if they were
lit continuously, so the instrument panel lights and headlights will dim a bit
when the signals are flashing...

If your battery is old and weak, the lights will dim a lot more...

 >Eventhough my voltage levels at 3000rpm were reading at about 13.8 -14.5 I
suspect the rectifier may have been damaged by the wires once touching.

Your rectifier would have six diodes in it. Diodes either work, or they don't,
there is no in-between state where they don't quite pass the normal amount of
current...

If you blew out a pair of diodes, the output from your alternator would be cut
in half, and your rectifier regulator output would probably be down around 12
volts...

 >Also my idle speed dips about 200 rpm intermittently.

Is the tach digital or analog or cable driven? The voltage variations while the
turn signals are on might affect the RPM reading on an analog tach that has a
needle driven by a coil inside the unit. A digital tach that just shows numbers
should be accurate because the ignition unit usually counts the number of
ignition pulses from the signal generator that tells the ignition unit when to
fire the spark plugs...


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Vader2

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Since: Oct 03, 2004
Posts: 12



(Msg. 3) Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2004 4:32 am
Post subject: Re: Rectifier problems [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Good point. I think I'll try a new battery now that I have the wiring
cleaned up.

I think the tach is analog. I've watched the needle dip will idling when
parked. No signals are on. You can also notice a drop in the engine sound.

"krusty kritter" <kaybearjr DeleteThis @aol.comical> wrote in message
news:20041022233225.18151.00005100@mb-m03.aol.com...
  > >From: "Vader" d_vader42 DeleteThis @hotmail.com
 >
  >>However, I noticed when I have the signal light on and other instrument
  >>panel
 > light slightly dims each time the signal light blinks.
 >
 > That's relatively normal...
 >
 > When your turn signals are flashing on and off, you have a large surge of
 > current going through the flasher to heat up the bimetallic contacts that
 > turn
 > the signal lights off, plus you have a large surge of current going
 > through the
 > filaments of two bulbs to make them start glowing brightly. The surges of
 > current consume more wattage than the turn signal bulbs would use if they
 > were
 > lit continuously, so the instrument panel lights and headlights will dim a
 > bit
 > when the signals are flashing...
 >
 > If your battery is old and weak, the lights will dim a lot more...
 >
  >>Eventhough my voltage levels at 3000rpm were reading at about 13.8 -14.5 I
 > suspect the rectifier may have been damaged by the wires once touching.
 >
 > Your rectifier would have six diodes in it. Diodes either work, or they
 > don't,
 > there is no in-between state where they don't quite pass the normal amount
 > of
 > current...
 >
 > If you blew out a pair of diodes, the output from your alternator would be
 > cut
 > in half, and your rectifier regulator output would probably be down around
 > 12
 > volts...
 >
  >>Also my idle speed dips about 200 rpm intermittently.
 >
 > Is the tach digital or analog or cable driven? The voltage variations
 > while the
 > turn signals are on might affect the RPM reading on an analog tach that
 > has a
 > needle driven by a coil inside the unit. A digital tach that just shows
 > numbers
 > should be accurate because the ignition unit usually counts the number of
 > ignition pulses from the signal generator that tells the ignition unit
 > when to
 > fire the spark plugs...
 >
 >
 > # * 0 * #
 > ^
 >
 >
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Daniel Bannon2

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Since: Jun 29, 2003
Posts: 523



(Msg. 4) Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2004 4:40 am
Post subject: Re: Rectifier problems [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 20:23:48 -0400, "Vader" <d_vader42.RemoveThis@hotmail.com>
wrote:

 >Anyone know of any good rectifier symptoms?

 >
 >Any advise?
 >
 >-Ron
 >95' CBR600 F3
 >


There are online guides to isolating and testing motorcycle
rectifiers, batteries, stators, etc. I'm too lazy to find one right
now, though I've visited these pages in years past.

I thought a bad regulator/rectifier resulted in under or over-charging
of the battery. That wouldn't be hard to isolate.

Hondas seem to have a notoriety for weak charging system components,
one of the few built-in gotchas of the breed (along with the cam chain
tensioners on many inlines). I'm fully expecting my stator to croak
any day now, after 44K miles.

Isolate, test, replace if needed. Not terribly difficult or
expensive.


'-----------------------------------------------------
' Daniel Bannon
' NW WA State, U.S.A.
' 2003 ZX636B Hercusaki, 1999 CBR1100XX
'-----------------------------------------------------<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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krusty kritter

External


Since: Jun 10, 2004
Posts: 407



(Msg. 5) Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2004 5:15 am
Post subject: Re: Rectifier problems [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

 >From: "Vader" d_vader42.RemoveThis@hotmail.com

 >I think the tach is analog. I've watched the needle dip will idling when
parked. No signals are on. You can also notice a drop in the engine sound.

Dirty carbs, fuel level problems?

Variations in idle speed may be caused by dirty gasoline plugging up the idle
jets momentarily, and also blocking the fuel shut off needle valves in the
carbs from shutting off the flow of gas when the float bowl gets full...

High fuel level in the float bowls is easier for the vacuum in the venturi to
suck out of the bowls, so the mixture gets richer and the idle speed
increases...



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