Problem with electrics.

  > > Does any one have any sujestions as to what I should
  > > look for.
  > > Cheers taz.
  > >
 >
 >
 > Were the lights too bright, or varying with engine speed? Sounds very
much
 > like a regulation problem.




Yep shortly before the failure the lights began to flicker with
the increase and decrease of the engine speed.
taz.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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"taz" <taz24taz24 DeleteThis @blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:arbUc.1630$VA.19567685@news-text.cableinet.net...
   > > > Does any one have any sujestions as to what I should
   > > > look for.
   > > > Cheers taz.
   > > >
  > >
  > >
  > > Were the lights too bright, or varying with engine speed? Sounds very
 > much
  > > like a regulation problem.
 >
 >
 >
 >
 > Yep shortly before the failure the lights began to flicker with
 > the increase and decrease of the engine speed.
 > taz.


It depends on how the regulation is done, the cheap and cheerful way it used
to be done was a zener diode block attached to the frame, which basically
just shorted the excess to ground. Looked like a small metal lump with fins,
only one wire connected to it. If this failed, or if it got corroded and
made bad contact then you would indeed get flickering lights and
overcharging. I`m thinking back to my DT125 back in the 1970`s - I would
imagine its done differently now? Anyone have a wiring diagram for this bike
we can look at?<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
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"> > Yep shortly before the failure the lights began to flicker with
  > > the increase and decrease of the engine speed.
  > > taz.
 >
 >
 > It depends on how the regulation is done, the cheap and cheerful way it
used
 > to be done was a zener diode block attached to the frame, which basically
 > just shorted the excess to ground. Looked like a small metal lump with
fins,
 > only one wire connected to it. If this failed, or if it got corroded and
 > made bad contact then you would indeed get flickering lights and
 > overcharging. I`m thinking back to my DT125 back in the 1970`s - I would
 > imagine its done differently now? Anyone have a wiring diagram for this
bike
 > we can look at?
 >
 >

Its a regulator rectifyer. It does bolt to the frame but it has six cables
into it. The power supply is a 3 phase generator and the regulator smothes
out the voltage and makes it a DC. I have the wireing diagram and have
tested it. This is the third one I know of that has been on the bike.
The one that was on the bike was faulty so I replaced it with another.
That one did exactly the same so I got that changed. The last one which
I fitted, two weeks ago is now the on the bike. I am going to do a full
electrical test. I will test the generator which should supply 24v AC.
I will then systamaticaly test every component on the bike.
Cheers for the advice.
taz.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Problem with electrics. 

"taz" <taz24taz24.DeleteThis@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4liUc.1688$d74.20962413@news-text.cableinet.net...
 >
 > "> > Yep shortly before the failure the lights began to flicker with
   > > > the increase and decrease of the engine speed.
   > > > taz.
  > >
  > >
  > > It depends on how the regulation is done, the cheap and cheerful way it
 > used
  > > to be done was a zener diode block attached to the frame, which
basically
  > > just shorted the excess to ground. Looked like a small metal lump with
 > fins,
  > > only one wire connected to it. If this failed, or if it got corroded and
  > > made bad contact then you would indeed get flickering lights and
  > > overcharging. I`m thinking back to my DT125 back in the 1970`s - I would
  > > imagine its done differently now? Anyone have a wiring diagram for this
 > bike
  > > we can look at?
  > >
  > >
 >
 > Its a regulator rectifyer. It does bolt to the frame but it has six cables
 > into it. The power supply is a 3 phase generator and the regulator smothes
 > out the voltage and makes it a DC. I have the wireing diagram and have
 > tested it. This is the third one I know of that has been on the bike.
 > The one that was on the bike was faulty so I replaced it with another.
 > That one did exactly the same so I got that changed. The last one which
 > I fitted, two weeks ago is now the on the bike. I am going to do a full
 > electrical test. I will test the generator which should supply 24v AC.
 > I will then systamaticaly test every component on the bike.
 > Cheers for the advice.
 > taz.


More important is the output of the regulator, I would guess it ought to be
no more than 15V DC open circuit, but to dry out your battery it sounds like
little or no regulation has been taking place. Pay attention to the mounting
on the frame, I imagine that is part of the circuit too.
Good luck.<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Problem with electrics. 

"Dave Walker" <spam DeleteThis @btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:2oe175F9fk4hU1@uni-berlin.de...
 >
 > "taz" <taz24taz24 DeleteThis @blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
 > news:4liUc.1688$d74.20962413@news-text.cableinet.net...
  > >
  > > "> > Yep shortly before the failure the lights began to flicker with
   > > > > the increase and decrease of the engine speed.
   > > > > taz.
   > > >
   > > >
   > > > It depends on how the regulation is done, the cheap and cheerful way
it
  > > used
   > > > to be done was a zener diode block attached to the frame, which
 > basically
   > > > just shorted the excess to ground. Looked like a small metal lump with
  > > fins,
   > > > only one wire connected to it. If this failed, or if it got corroded
and
   > > > made bad contact then you would indeed get flickering lights and
   > > > overcharging. I`m thinking back to my DT125 back in the 1970`s - I
would
   > > > imagine its done differently now? Anyone have a wiring diagram for
this
  > > bike
   > > > we can look at?
   > > >
   > > >
  > >
  > > Its a regulator rectifyer. It does bolt to the frame but it has six
cables
  > > into it. The power supply is a 3 phase generator and the regulator
smothes
  > > out the voltage and makes it a DC. I have the wireing diagram and have
  > > tested it. This is the third one I know of that has been on the bike.
  > > The one that was on the bike was faulty so I replaced it with another.
  > > That one did exactly the same so I got that changed. The last one which
  > > I fitted, two weeks ago is now the on the bike. I am going to do a full
  > > electrical test. I will test the generator which should supply 24v AC.
  > > I will then systamaticaly test every component on the bike.
  > > Cheers for the advice.
  > > taz.
 >
 >
 > More important is the output of the regulator, I would guess it ought to
be
 > no more than 15V DC open circuit, but to dry out your battery it sounds
like
 > little or no regulation has been taking place. Pay attention to the
mounting
 > on the frame, I imagine that is part of the circuit too.
 > Good luck.
 >
 >
I had a silmilar problem with mine, I replaced the Regulator and it has been
fine since.

Try Barton Motors (www.bartonmotors.co.uk) for a regulator, nice people to
deal with

Nick<!-- ~MESSAGE_AFTER~ -->
 >> Stay informed about: Problem with electrics. 

Cheers Guys
taz.
 >> Stay informed about: Problem with electrics.