"BryanUT" <nestle12 RemoveThis @comcast.net> wrote in message
news:tLednZV49q5HsO7bnZ2dnUVZ_iydnZ2d@comcast.com...
>
> "oasysco" <wilderkommen RemoveThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1181952510.369994.241080@p77g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
> >
> > I use OEM filters, too. My clutch is hydraulic.
> >
> > Greg
> >
>
> Apples to Oranges. Cable vs. Hydraulic is the release mechanism. Then
> there is wet vs. dry clutch. Your bike has a wet clutch (bathed in oil)
and
> a hydraulic release mechanism vs a cable.
>
> Oil is important to wet clutches. Automotive oils (synthetic or
otherwise)
> have properties that are bad for wet clutches.
>
Not this again.
This isn't true. Only the energy-conserving motor oils are the problem.
And
their problem is that they have low phosporous because phosophrous
destroys catalyatic converters however it is needed to keep valves
lubricated.
10W-40 works fine in most M/C engines with no problems with wet clutches.
10W-40 is not an energy conserving M/C oil.
You will of course run into exceptions with clutches that have spent most of
their life in one particular kind of oil, being intolerant of changing to a
different
oil.
Ted
>> Stay informed about: Anybody using Pennzoil Platinum 100% synth oil in your bik..